Then and Now: Pearson Conservatory Fountain

The Pearson Conservatory was originally built in 1882 and restored to its former glory between 2009 and 2011.  The centre piece of the Pearson Conservatory is an ornamental fountain made by Andrew Handyside at the Duke Street Foundry "Britannia Iron Works" in Derby in the UK around the same year the Conservatory was built (1882).  The Britannia Foundry's work was well known for its fine quality so these fountains can be found all over the globe.

This particular design of fountain is listed as Design Number 15 on Page 30 of the 1879 publication "An Illustrated book of Designs for Fountains and Vases, costing from £1 to £1200 manufactured by Andrew Handyside".  The same fountain can be found at Prince Alfred College, Adelaide, Australia as well as at Sarmiento School Fountain in San Miguel de Tucuman, Argentina, South America.

The information above was found on the Friar Gate Bridge Derby website.

In 2013 I visited the Conservatory and did a post about the fountain located inside with the info above.  You could see in the photo in the post that the fountain was starting to show rust through the paint.  The other day I took a walk through the park and ended up at the Conservatory.  It was great to see that the fountain have been cleaned up and given a new coat of paint.

Then and Now - Pearson Conservatory

The Victorian conservatory in St George's Park was completed and opened on 12 September 1882 and named the Pearson Conservatory after the then Mayor of Port Elizabeth, Mr HW Pearson.  The conservatory cost £3,800 to put up and arrived in South Africa as a 'kit of parts' and was constructed in the park.  This conservatory was imported from England and was the first of three such buildings in South Africa at the time.  The double volume central atrium is flanked by two wings to the East and the West with perfect symmetry along its two axes. 

Over the years the building had been fixed up several times and in 1972 the city even considered demolishing it.  The building was restored by the municipality and reopened in 2011.  I just think that not enough people make the effort to go and visit it using the excuse of "the park is too dangerous". Dangerous se g@t.  I went for a walk through the park on my own with my camera last week and didn't see any unsavory characters.  But if you are worried, use the back entrance next to the cactus garden across from the hospital and you can drive right up to the conservatory, parking right outside.

Then and Now - North End coastline

North End Beach back in the days.  A stretch of sand all the way to the Swartkops River which could possible have become one of Port Elizabeth's prime beachfront real estate areas if it didn't fall in the hands of Railways and municipality.  This pictures dates back to 1902 right after the Grate Gale when 21 ships ran aground along North End Beach.

Today North End Beach is no more.  The beach and coastline was reclaimed, railway tracks, Settlers Freeway (M4) and the N2 was built along it and the sea is held back by dolosse.  Sad really when you think of the potential this area could have had.

I know the angle of the Now photograph isn't the same as the Then, but I just haven't been able to find a spot with uninterrupted views of the whole coastline like this one from Richmond Hill.  The houses in the foreground is just above Albany Road.

Then and Now - Cradock Place

Frederick Korsten, a Dutch entrepreneur, came to Algoa Bay in 1810 and over the following years established himself as a merchant, farmer and owner of a whale fishery.  In 1812 Korsten purchased a farm called Papenkuilsfontein from Thomas Ignatius Ferreira and named it Cradock Place after Sir John Cradock who was the Governor of the Cape Colony from 1811 until 1814.  The farm changed the commercial landscape and economic future of Algoa Bay dramatically during the 1800's.  It also became the social centre for well-to-do visitors to Algoa Bay with some of the guests including Cape Governors of the day, French scientists, a Zulu delegation sent by Shaka, as well as the well-known traveler-artist Thomas Baines.

Frederick Korsten passed away on 16 June 1839 at the age of 66 years and bequeathed the farm to his daughter who was married to John Centlivres Chase.  Chase wrote a book called "Old Times and Odd Corners" that documented the history of the estate.  Korsten was buried on the farm and it is said that the cemetery and family mausoleum were at some considerable distance north-west from the house, roughly where Stanford Road and the Papenkuils River run closet to each other today.

Unfortunately the farm was later ravaged by misfortune and sorrow.  The end of Cradock Place started with a devastating flood followed by a fire that totally destroyed the homestead on 13 March 1909.  At that stage the farm was no longer owned by the family.  

Urban expansion which has accelerated in the area and extensive vandalism means very little is left of Korsten's commercial legacy.  Today only the foundations of the buildings remain next to the road between Algoa Park and Young Park.  At least it seems the municipality is keeping the grass cut around the foundations.

Then and Now - Baakens River Bridge

We all know the Baakens River flows through Port Elizabeth and that most of the Baakens Valley is protected green open spaces all the way from Sunridge Park, past the 3rd Avenue Dip, through Walmer and Mill Park to Settlres Park.  It really is a pity that the municipality doesn't look after the well being of the river better and that the open spaces aren't utilised as much as the potential it has, but it's still a very special area.  I often wonder though how many people have never thought where the Baakens River Mouth is and didn't realise that it actually flows into the Port Elizabeth Harbour.  After a lunch at This is Eat at the harbour the other day I remembered the two historic pictures below and that I still had to take a Now photo to post with them.  So here it is, Then and Now - Baakens River Bridge.    

In 1851 the bridge across the Baakens River near the mouth was washed away and a new wooden one was built for pedestrians.  The road below for wagons simply took a dip through the river and up the other side.  The new bridge washed away in 1857 and the then replacement was damaged in 1867.  The roadway though was practically untouched.  This bridge was replaced after 1867, the road straightened and dip removed.  

 In 1892 the foundation stone was laid for the new Baakens Bridge.   The town council in partnership with the Harbour Board built a strong new bridge over the river.  In the following years several acres of the southern bank were reclaimed by the Harbour Board, narrowing the river even further while a concrete wall was built along the river banks.  In 1913 the ratepayers accepted a scheme to widen and improve the channel at the mouth of the river and to a new bridge to provide a proper outlet in case of future floods.  The original plan was to build a steel bridge to replace the cast iron one but the war interfered with their plans to buy suitable steel and in 1916 it was decided to rather use reinforced concrete.  The plans had to be set aside though and only once the war was over did things move on the project again.  The bridge was finally completed in June of 1922.

This is what the mouth of the Baakens River looks like today at low tide.  Two bridges below, one going towards town where the original bridge use to be and one going towards Humewood plus the Settlers Freeway overhead.  The Tramways Building is visible in the background of both the second as well as the last photo.  For most this will probably be just a bunch of useless history about a bridge, but the one thing that is clear is that this river mouth has seen a lot of bridges (and flooding) over the years.

The historic information in this post was sourced from Margaret Harradine's excellent book, Port Elizabeth, A social chronicle to the end of 1945.

Then and Now - Donkin Reserve - the lighthouse and pyramid

About two and a half years ago (can it really be so long already?) I did a Then and Now for the Donkin Reserve featuring photos taken from the sea side of the lighthouse and pyramid.  Last week I passed by the Donkin on my way to a meeting and snapped one from the other side with the two "Then" pictures in this post in mind.  I notice I should have squared it up a bit more, but it will have to do.  This first picture dates from about 1900 (according to the info I got with the picture).

This second picture is dated 1904 but I have a feeling it could be from a few years later.  The lighthouse keeper's cottage has been extended, the tree in the courtyard is still there but there is now a tree on the right hand side of the lighthouse as well.  Check out the sailing ships in the bay. 

And lastly the Donkin Lighthouse (Hill Lighthouse) and Pyramid (Donkin Memorial) as it stands today.  No tree in the lighthouse keeper's cottage courtyard and the building is now used as an Visitor Information Centre by Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism with a coffee shop next door. 

Then and Now - The Green Mosque

With the month of Ramadan starting today, I thought it would be appropriate to do a Then and Now featuring the Masjied-Ul-Aziz (also known as the Pier Street Mosque or Green Mosque).  The mosque was officially opened in July 1901 and the first Imam was Abdul Wahab Salie .  The mosque was destined to be destroyed by the declaration of the Group Areas Act to make way for a freeway off ramp, but the matter went to the United Nations where Islamic countries prevented its destruction, but not before the minaret had been removed already and bulldozers stood waiting. 

In the Now photo the extensions can be seen that has been added since it originally opened.  The minaret is also different from the original and you can clearly see why the mosque is referred to as the Green Mosque.

I also would like to take this opportunity to wish all our Muslim followers a joyous and blessed Ramadan.  Peace, love, joy and good health to you.

Then and Now - The South End Fig Tree

The old Fig Tree in South End (across the road on the harbour side from the South End Museum) predates all living memory and is said to be well over 100 years old.  Back in the days pre the removal of everybody and everything from South End due to the implementation of the Group Areas Act, the tree was a popular spot.  Kids climbed up in it's branches, families had picnics in the shade and the older residents used it as a place to meet friends for a chat.  The then photo dates either from the late 1960's or very early 70's. 

These days the tree stands on it's own on the grassy patch next to where the road up from the city center meets Walmer Boulevard, Settlers Freeway and Beach Road.  The last of the remaining houses behind it nothing more than ruins (prime property which, if I'm correct, belongs to Transnet so go figure).  The tree may not be a meeting place anymore, but it does take center stage on the South End Museum's logo and is seen, although probably not really noticed, by hundreds of passing motorists every day.

Then and Now - The Campanile bells

The Campanile, wedged between the Port Elizabeth Railway Station, the PE Harbour and the Settlers Freeway, was built to celebrate the centenary of the landing of the British Settlers in 1820.  The tower was built on the landing beach where the Settlers came ashore with the foundation stone being laid in 1921.  It was officially opened in 1923, the clock was installed in 1925 (started at noon on 28 April of that year) and the bells hung in 1936.  The Then photo shows one of the carillon of 23 bells being hoisted up.

Now, 80 years later, the bells were removed from the Campanile for the first time to allow for restoration to the tower as well as the bells.  I was there when two of the bells got lowered and had the privilege to take photos of it happening.

Then and Now - The Port Elizabeth Opera House

The first meeting to discuss a new theatre for Port Elizabeth took place in 1890 after which a company was formed, shares sold and a site was agreed upon with the Town Council.  The building was designed by G.W. Smith and opened on 1 December 1892.  The first lessees of the building was B and F Wheeler who also presented the opening performance of JM Barrie's "Walker, London".  By 1916 the theatre was taken over by African Consolidated Theatres and they turned it into a cinema.  In 1961 the Opera House was offered to the Municipality to use as a civic theatre, but they refused.  Five years later, in 1966, the Cape Provincial Administration bought and renovated it.  

The Opera House was extended in 1985 and had extensive renovations and another extension added in 2015.  Today the Port Elizabeth Opera House is one of the oldest active Victorian Theatres in the world.  Said to be the oldest in the Southern Hemisphere.  

The historic information in this post was taken from Margaret Harradine's excellent book, Port Elizabeth, A social chronicle to the end of 1945.

Then and Now - The Athenaeum building

The Port Elizabeth Athenaeum Society of Port Elizabeth was founded in 1856 to promote the interests of science and literature among the members and general public.  In 1859 land was granted for the erection of the Town Hall and it stated that the building had to provide space for a library and athenaem as well.  In 1887 the athenaeum was dissolved and the Council took over it's assets, which included a museum, which was housed in the Town Hall

In 1894 the Athenaeum was revived and comprised of the PE Institute, School of Art, Naturalists' Society and the Camera Club.  Although they claimed their right to space in the Town Hall, the Council gave a new site and 3000 pounds for the construction of a new building for them to use.  The building was opened on 26 July 1896 which is about the date of the Then picture. 

In 1901 a new wing was opened and in 1919 the Athenaeum became a social club.  Since 1946 the Little Theatre has also been in operation from here and the building became a National Monument in 1980.  The whole building was renovated by the Municipality and MBDA a couple of years ago and still houses the theatre.  It also has a new coffee shop, exhibition and meeting space as well as a few other components.

The historic information in this post was taken from Margaret Harradine's excellent book, Port Elizabeth, A social chronicle to the end of 1945.

Then and Now - Lower Baakens Valley

Way back in the early days when the first ships started coming past our coastline they used to sail into the bay to get fresh water in the lagoon near the mouth of the Baakens River.  The Baakens River got it's name from the Dutch East Indian Company beacon that was placed at the fountain below Fort Frederick from where sailors could collect fresh water from for the ships.  The fountain later supplied water to the early settlement that later became Port Elizabeth.  In April 1851 a wooden tank was built over the springs on the south side of the lagoon and pipes carried the water beyond the surf to a water boar from where ships were supplied with fresh water.  In December 1857 the old wooden tank was replaced with a stone tank.

In July 1864 the municipality narrowed the channel of the Baakens River and reclaimed the land where the lagoon was located.  The reclaimed land was divided into plots and sold off with the money being used to buy the land on which Victoria Park is located today.

The Now photo was taken from the top of Fort Frederick and you can barely see the very narrow channel that the Baakens River is contained in now.  The Tramways Building, currently being renovated by the MBDA, can be seen right in the middle of the picture where the road bends with the Baakens River Mouth just to the left of it.  The river, of cause, flows into the Port Elizabeth Harbour

The historic information in this post was taken from Margaret Harradine's excellent book Port Elizabeth.

Then and Now - Kings Beach kiddies slide

When we were small we often went to swim at the pools (both the pool by the Smartie Train and the kiddie slide pool) at Kings Beach.  I remember the day so well when I decided that I was big enough to go and  try out the "big" slide at McArthur's Pool.  The kiddies slide (and Smartie Train pool) closed down before I had kids so they never got to experience that part of my childhood memories. After the slide got closed down they created a garden in the pool.

It was great to see that when the Kings Beach Park development took place that the structure with it's stone steps got incorporated into the development.  The fountain still works (although not on the day I took the photo) and the water cascades down the steps and into the Kings Beach lake.

Then and Now - Target Kloof

I am sure all of us who live in Port Elizabeth drive through Target Kloof between Walmer and the Central / Cape Road area every now and then.  Some on a more regular basis than others.  But do we ever think about the history of the road and area? Probably not.  So here is a tidbit of history.  Although I couldn't find any info on where Target Kloof got its name from, I have found that on 22 April 1896 it was decided at a Town Council meeting that the Divisional Council's proposed plan to build a road through Target Kloof from Port Elizabeth to Walmer was approved.  The road had to be 60 feet wide, fenced and maintained by the Divisional Council.  By November of that same year the old road through the Mill Property was closed.  The Mill Property, by the way, is where Thomas Gubb who was the owner at the time, got permission to have Xhosa huts built in 1863.  Although he sold the land in 1867, the area was still known as Gubb's Location and was later owned by the Mill Park Estate and Land Company.  The location was closed by the Plague Board in 1903.  But I'm digressing.  It's interesting that the picture says the Baakens River near Port Elizabeth but also keeping in mind that back then this would have been outside of the town of Port Elizabeth.

I really like this second picture.  It's a lot clearer than the first.  Notice the horse drawn carriage heading towards Port Elizabeth and the very old car heading towards Walmer.  Something else to note is the footbridge on the left of the road, probably for when the river was high and people needed to cross. The hill in the background is where Wellington Park is today.  This time the picture is marked as "New Road, Walmer". 

The road through Target Kloof as it is today.  Still quite wide (there was too much traffic for me to see if it's 60 feet or not) and fenced in in some areas.  Unfortunately not as maintained by the council as it is supposed to be, but still one of Port Elizabeth's busiest thoroughfares. I think I got pretty close to the same spot as the second picture was taken from when you compare the hill in the background.  Now if I can just figure out where the name Target Kloof came from.

Update (17 March 2016) - As far as the name goes, word is that there used to be a shooting range on the Port Elizabeth side of the valley near the then Gubb's Location and the locals started to refer to it as Target Kloof.

I got the two two historic pictures of Port Elizabeth groups on Facebook and they unfortunately had no credits attached to them.  The historic information was gathered from Margaret Harradine's book Port Elizabeth.

Then and Now - Trinder Square

Back in the early days of Port Elizabeth there used to be a vlei area where Trinder Square in Central is located today.  The "Vlei" was a natural drainage point and in the early and mid 1800's it was used to provide water for animals with a lot of farmers coming to do business at the market square bringing their animals here to drink.  The Garrison Company's gardens was also laid out on the western side of the vlei.  The vlei also was made deeper over time as the clay was used to built roads in the vicinity.  

In February of 1883 the vlei was drained and in June of the same year a wall with iron railings was built around the area.  I got most of the info from Margaret Harradine's Port Elizabeth, but the book doesn't give the reason the vlei was filled in.  My guess is that the rich folk who moved into and built mansions in the area didn't quite like the animals being watered here.  In particular perhaps the bad smell. 

Today Trinder Square is a popular spot where youngsters from the surrounding flats come to play soccer.  The park has recently seen an upgrade making it part of Route 67.  Mosaic covered benches has been built to represent the exposed roots of the old Wild Fig trees that grow around the park while play equipment has been installed in the south-east corner of the park.

Then and Now - The Beach Hotel

Yesterday morning Errol Somerville posted two old photos of the Beach Hotel on the Friendly City of Port Elizabeth Facebook group.  The first one dates from round about 1924, the year the hotel was built.  I went to have a look on the Beach Hotel's website to see if they had any history about the hotel on there and found the following:

It is believed that the original Beach Hotel and surrounding area belonged to Piet Retief and his family.  His home, a tennis court and servants quarters stood on this ground. 

Tenders for the proposed Beach Hotel were called for on 22 June 1893.  The wood and iron structure was designed by architect George William Smith.  Construction progressed rapidly and on 16 February 1894, the hotel was officially opened with a grand luncheon party.  The first Manager was Mr. Edward Steinmann.

Then, sadly, at 5 o’clock on 1 December 1915, the hotel went up in flames.  Townsfolk rushed to witness firemen desperately fighting the fire which destroyed the entire building within an hour.  In 1922 Humewood was ripe for development after the Marine Drive was completed.  Mr. Bill Poole immediately took the option on the first hotel site and built the second Beach Hotel.  The building was completed in 1924. The hotel changed hands several times and was later bought by a Mrs. Lupping at an auction for £46 000.  Wilfred Guscott bought the hotel from the Luppings, and his nephew, Roy Lombard, bought it in 1958.

Mr Lombard brought about the first alterations to the hotel when he elevated it to the first three star hotel in the country.  It is now a popular family run hotel  which welcomes holidaymakers and businessmen alike from across the world. 

 The second picture dates back to the late 50's or early 60's and I guess was taken just after Roy Lombard made the alterations.

My car was in for a service yesterday and while waiting outside the Beach Hotel for the shuttle to pick me up I decided to snap a picture of the hotel as it looks now for a comparison.  I tried my best to get a good picture from a similar angle which wasn't easy with the boundary wall and parking area in the way.  It's pretty close though to make a Then and Now comparison. The outside building that was used as off-sales back then is now a restaurant in the form of Ginger. The entrance has changed and there is no more balcony (which is a great pity as the view would be awesome) while the Verandah restaurant has also been added since back then.

Then and Now: St Peters Church (ruins)

When the Queen Elizabeth cruise ship was in the PE Harbour a few weeks ago I took a drive to the St Peters Church ruins in South End as it has a great view of the harbour.  It's been a year or two since I've last been there so I took a walk around the ruins and snapped a few pictures.  I found this old picture of St Peters with the Fishermen's Cross in front of it and decided to do a Then and Now post with it.

St Peters Anglican Church was started in temporary premises as a daughter church of St Mary’s in 1871. The church obtained part of the St Mary’s cemetery land and built a permanent church building just above the cemetery in 1875.  It was designed and built by Rev George Smith, who became the first minister. The church was inaugurated in 1877 and served the culturally mixed community who resided in South End.  The church also housed a school for coloured and Malay children, as they had no school of their own.  St Peters was the first school in South End to educate up to standard 6 (grade 8) which was the maximum level available for coloureds at that time.  During the 1960s, the apartheid Government declared South End as a white area and the existing residents were forcibly removed.  The Government decreed that some churches, mosques and schools would be spared the demolitions, and initially St Peters church survived.  By 1970 most of the congregants had been forced to leave the area and the church was not that much in use anymore.  It was deconsecrated in 1972 and the empty building was vandalised to the extend of what little is left of it today.

Source of information “South End as We Knew it” by Yusef Agherdien, Ambrose C George and Shaheed Hendricks as well as “Port Elizabeth” by Margaret Harradine.

The ‘Fisherman's Cross' in front of church in the Then photo stood in the grounds of St Peters Anglican Church and was so called because it stood as a symbol of love and hope for the men in the trawlers and line boats in the bay. It could be clearly seen from all parts of Algoa Bay and faced across the mouth of the Baakens River. The Cross was unveiled and dedicated as a memorial to those who served in the Great War of 1914-18.

 

The figure on the cross was a life-sized one and had been imported from Belgium. Kohler Brothers supplied the 12 foot high teak cross, and a parishioner John Hendricks, did the concrete work and stone masonry.  Somewhere in the late 1950s the figure, for some unknown reason, fell and broke and it was replaced by a cement sculpture

 

Amazingly, the Cross survived the might of apartheid laws and the bulldozers of the Group Areas Act in the late 1960s and early 70s. It was taken to the church of St Mark and St John in Parkside in the Northern Suburbs, and today it overlooks the noisy N2 motorway, still bearing witness.  I have to be honest when I say I have never seen the actual cross so I think it's time to pay it a visit in Parkside. 

The Now photo was taken from behind the church as I just couldn't get a similar angle from the front.  As you can see there isn't much more than just the outside walls of the church left standing today.

Then and Now - Top of Whites Road

The Port Elizabeth tramway network was opened on 14 May 1881 and was initially operated horse-cars.  On 16 June 1897 the network was converted to electrical power and the system operated until it was closed on 17 December 1948.  One of the most challenging parts of the tramway network was going up Whites Road past the Opera House.  Apparently at one stage boys with buckets of sand used to throw sand on the line to give the trams more grip going up the hill.

Looking down Whites Road today it's all cars (ok, so not at the moment of taking this photo) and no more trams.  Both the Opera House and St Augustine's are blocked by trees but still there.  At least the buildings top right are still recognisable from the Then picture to Now. 

Then and Now - Port Elizabeth Airport

I've been collecting historic photos from the Port Elizabeth groups on Facebook to be able to do Then and Now posts and found the "Then" one in this post showing the Port Elizabeth Airport in what I guess was probable somewhere in the 60's.  Perhaps the older folk around here can help me out on this one.  The day after finding this photo I had to drop something off at the airport and snapped the "Now" picture.  Clearly there's a lot more cars, and thus also people, at the airport these days than back then.

 

 

One of the historic highlights of Port Elizabeth was the first flight to Port Elizabeth from Cape Town made by Allister Miller in 1917. As there was no airport at the time yet, Miller landed on the fairway of the PE Golf Course.  This was a huge occasion for the golf course was packed with people.  Having to avoid hitting any people, Miller had to crash his plane into a bunker to stop it.  Luckily only the propeller got damaged, which can still be seen at the Golf Club today.

 

The Port Elizabeth Airport Then

 

Miller himself founded the airport in 1929 when he started the Union Airways in Port Elizabeth after receiving a contract from the Union government to fly mail from Cape Town to the major cities at the time.   Union Airways eventually became South African Airways.  The airport was officially opened in 1936 with a single runway, one hangar and a concrete apron.  During the Second World War the airfield was extended to accommodate 42 Air School for the Royal Air Force and 6 Squadron South African Air Force on the southern and eastern sides of the field.

 

Construction of permanent terminal buildings, runways and an air traffic control building began in 1950 with operations moving to St Albans, some 25 km away, during construction.  The new buildings were officially opened in 1955.  Since then the apron and arrivals and departures building has several upgrades and extensions.  The airport currently has two runways, one of 1,980 meters and the other is 1,677 meters.  In the run-up to the 2010 FIFA World Cup there was talk of extending the runway to about 2000 meters to allows for international flights and although this wasn't done, the airport boasts with international airport status. 

 

The Port Elizabeth Airport Now

Then and Now: The Humewood Slipway

Last week I did a post Then and Now : Humewood Beach showing a couple of historic photos of Humewood beach along with a modern one.  I purposely didn't post the two historic photos of the Humewood Slipway below as they were taken from a different direction and I decided to make a separate post for them. 

The pillars and old slipway you can still see at Humewood Beach was built long before Port Elizabeth had a harbour.  Construction on the Harbour Board Slipway started in 1899 and it was opened in 1903.  Ships would sail between the six pillars to be steadied before a cradle was lowered underneath the ship and the ship then pulled onto the slipway by steam-driven hauling gear for repairs.  The slipway was used until 1939. 

This is a very nice picture showing a tug that has been pulled onto the slipway

The Humewood slipway and pillars as it stands today.  A famous Port Elizabeth beachfront landmark although most people don't know what it used to be.